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Weaving and Dyeing(1)

2009-02-26 17:38:49 作者:phpcms 来源: 浏览次数:0 网友评论 0

 

Silk-Knit Goods
They are fabrics made of silk and consists of many types: brocade , satin, silk fabric, etc. This variety is due to different weaving skills and silk fabrics. Some are lined, some are unbleached, some are heavy, and some are thin. Silk-knit goods are one of great Chinese contributions to the world culture. The weaving skills emerged in the primitive society. They can demonstrate the culture tradition of one nation. Though they historically served as clothing material, its relation to the common people had never been severed.Many excellent weaving skills and patterns were first established by the common people and passed to all walks of life.

 

Sichuan Brocade
It is one of historical silk-knit brocade and a general term for the silk-knit brocades which were in produced in Chengdu, Sichuan Province, from the Han Dynasty to the Three Kingdom Period. Since Sichuan and the middle China was linked up, the weaving industry has boomed. The varieties, colours, and patterns have become abundant. It flourished until the Tang, Song and Yuan Dynasties. Of the Sichuan brocades in the Tang Dynasty, the bundle flower lining brocade and the red lion and phoenix lining brocade were the most outstanding. Sichuan brocade is based on horizontally coloured line.

 

Cloud Brocade
\ It is one of the traditional silk-knit brocade. It is named after its colour as gorgeous as colourful cloud, for it is made of high -quality silk and woven with exquisite skill. The silk industry consists of two trades: the pattern brocade trade and the unpatterned brocade trade since the end of the Qing Dynasty. Not until then the name "cloud brocade" came into use.

 

Suzhou Brocade
It is a traditional silk-knit brocade in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province . It was lost at the end of the Ming Dynasty, and recovered at the beginning of the Qing Dynasty. It consists of big brocade and small brocade. Among them the big brocade is also called heavy brocade, which is mainly used for mounting picture and decoration, while small brocade is used for making box and decorating small articles. They are patterned geometrically and neatly decorated with bundles of flowers and flowers on twigs. They are coloured in harmony instead of in contrast.

 

Zhang Down
It is also called "swansdown" and one of the traditional silk -knit goods. It is produced in Zhangzhou, Fujian Province. It flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. There are patterned down and unpatterned down. The patterned down is cut in accordance to the lines and constitutes patterns with the unsevered line circles. The unpatterned down is covered with down circles on its surface.

 

Tapestried Brocade
\ It is a type of silk-knit goods whose patterns are highlighted by the colourful horizontal silk. First the horizontal threads are installed on the common weaving machine. Under the horizontal threads there are colourful picture drafts. The vertical threads with various colours are woven in segment by the small shuttles according to the patterns. The horizontal thread of each colour is interwoven with the vertical thread with every other colour. This way of weaving is called "interweaving horizontal and vertical threads."

 

Cotton Textiles
Cotton textiles take cotton as material. In the southwest of China the minority nationalities had cotton textiles early in the Eastern Han Dynasty. They called it "white folded cloth. " In Fujian Province of the Han Dynasty, they grew cotton. In the northwest of China of the Three Kingdom Period they also had cotton textiles. The cotton textiles have been produced in the south of the Changjiang River since the Tang Dynasty, especially since the Yuan Dynasty. In the areas populated by the minor nationalities the cotton used to serve as the material which was made into cotton textiles of various colours called brocades. The term "brocade" here refers to textile fabric and textile variety made with different weaving skills. There are silk- knit goods and cotton goods. Some textiles are woven with the blending of silk and cotton.

 

Lufei Cotton Print
It is a folk cotton print produced in Taicang, Shazhou, Nanjiang, and Chongming in Jiangsu Province. The warp is blue yarn, and the weft is white yarn. They are interwoven every other thread and a mat- like pattern turns out. The mat-like patterns vary in size according to the amount of yarn. Some line-crossed and striped patterns are inlaid with propitious characters such as "double happiness character."

 

Miao Brocade
\ It is a brocade of the Miao Nationality in Guiding, Guizhou Province. The General History of Guizhou Province quotes: "Miao brocade is produced in Guiding." It serves as ornament for the collar, front and sleeve of woman"s garment, or used as material for daily costume and quilt.

 

Dong Brocade
\ It is a brocade of the Dong Nationality. Its materials are yarn and silk. It is woven with one material or the blending of two materials. It serves as material for making child"s sleeveless garment, quilt facing, scarf, etc. The patterns on it are mainly flora and fauna and geometrical patterns such as some Chinese characters and sawtooth form.

 

Yao Brocade
It is a brocade of the Yao Nationality. The History of Xiangzhou compiled in the Tongzhi Period of the Qing Dynasty says, "Yao people are good at weaving brocade." Han people marry their daughters off with quilt facings, swaddling clothes of Yao brocade as the dowry. It is woven with dyed yarn or silk thread. Its patterns are mainly flora and fauna or geometrical grains. In Quanxiu, Guangxi Province they have red Yao brocade indicative of happiness and propitious, and orange or green brocade indicative of mourning and sadness.

 

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